Day 0 - St Jean Pier De Port

I can't believe I deleted my original day 0 blog post. I should know better than to try too much with this phone if I am tired. I remember most of what I posted I don't believe I can recreate it the way I did the first time. I am immensely frustrated.

I woke up at 4 a.m. but that was okay. Breakfast was just 2 hours away plus getting up early on the Camino is good, that way you can get in your perambulatory work well before the heat of the afternoon. Breakfast at the hotel Itzalpea was amazing, I had perhaps the most perfect Couissant ever, it was pure heaven. In addition, the bauget bread fresh buttter and fresh jams of black currants and pears were amazing. There was also fresh fruit and homemade yogurt, it was amazing breakfast.

Once I had this treasure in my stomach, my body insisted on 90 minutes of sleep, it was not taking no for an answer. Once I woke up I've walked along the river in St Jean Pier de Port, what a beautiful walk. And a bench in a shady spot on the river and read the first chapter of St Augustine's Confessions, the initial book for reading on the Camino. It is amazing the good Bishop of Hippo for the 4th century have so much to tell us today. His world is ours the same vanities and temptations. This was the most tranquil hour I'd spent in a very long time, perhaps ever.

After the walk at the river I went to the pilgrim's office. I received my credential as well as my first stamp. I am now officially a pilgrim on the Camino de Santiago de Compostela! ("And there was much rejoicing!" For all you Mony Python fans.)

After the pilgrims office my body was demanding more sleep. If it were just like I would probably just push through and have my body adjust to the new time, however, I just got over a virus so I decided to listen to el corpus mio and get some sleep. In an abundance of caution, I decided to sleep.

I discovered a new function for my pacer poles, they make great laundry drying racks.

After my siesta, I walk to the main street,  purchased some fruit and crackers. Attended the pilgrims mass, which was very nice. It was very cool not understanding a word of the French mass, but still understanding all of it. At the end the very nice Priest give all the pilgrim's a special blessing. Made it all worthwhile to go.

Had crepes jambone (ham) for dinner with a topping of walnuts, mushrooms and some other stuff, all washed down with a Kronenburg. Very tasty.

I am very excited to start my pilgrimage tomorrow first up or sleep!

Day -1 Tampa to Saint-Jean-Pier-De-Port, France

Well the trip has begun, today is a big travel day and has already had a few lessons for me. The alarm went off as scheduled at 5:30am. The first half hour was spent waking up slowly,  that is the way I do it, it will be interesting to see if the Camino changes that!

The first task was to verify if the $73 automatic cat feeding device was actually dispensing food as designed. It is scheduled to spill out the desired portion at 6am. I suspect it had been working just fine but did need to verify as the cat waits for it to come out and simultaneously absorbs it through some weird combination if osmosis and guratation. Yes, Rocky has an eating disorder as well as a number of other psychoses and neuroses, "bless his little feline heart". I am happy to report the device is functioning perfectly and the money was well spent, sort of.

Next final packs, shower, house-locking all completed, check.

Diana Durand my super-friend and owner of Canta Rana in Sarasota showed up at 7am to take me to the Tampa Airport. I  treated for a couple of Starbucks on Manatee Avenue on the way out of Bradenton.  After that we got to the Airport with no problems, all going good so far. Before leaving Diana gave me a gift of a small devotional card with Our Lady on the front and the Magnifcat in Spanish on the back to help with the Pilgrimage.  Needless to say I was very touched and will use it fully for its intended purpose.

The wait inside the Tampa Airport proved to be providential.  I met the noted author, Douglas Kennedy. Nice enough fellow,  he lives in Wiscasset,  Maine (one if my favorite places) and we talked for a bit. I've downloaded his recommendation "The Motive" for reading perhaps on the Camino, perhaps later, we'll see how I much I want to read once I am on my way.  My only disappointment with our interaction was when I tried to engage him with some talk of literature and my son's aspirations he kind of pulled a bit of the New England Blue Blood thing. I am going to cut him some slack as I imagine he gets inundated with lots of really stupid questions and comments by wanna be lit-wonks, that's not where I was headed but who was he to know. He took a genuine interest in the Pilgrimage, but indicated that he was Catholic "but not that Catholic" (insert Christian). That raised an interesting question  in my noggin,  Am I that Catholic? I think that one if the questions I am hoping to answer. They say the Camino provides, perhaps it has started.

The plane flight to Boston was interesting. I was hoping not to sleep until the later flight to Dublin. Anyone who has traveled with me in a plane realizes that this is a challenge for me. Me + Plane = Baby + Car Back Seat. Q.E.D. As luck would have it again,  the Camino came through. Middle seat between a Mom and an infant suffering from demon possession (or more likely colic) and a big guy in his late 20s with a heavy Boston accent who liked his Jack & Coke and ran a chain of Boutiques for exotic dancers located right in the many infamous Strip Clubs of Tampa.  Of this he was proud and liked to expound upon with booming sorority.  Needless to say, thanks Camino,  the likelihood of sleep was exceedingly small.  Happy to get out and hang in the Boston Logan Airport for a fairly lengthy layover til the Aer Lingus flight to Dublin. Here's a quick snapshot of the International terminal at Logan

Well the flight from Boston to Dublin is a really nice way to get to Europe, only six hours. Nice flight. Irish version of Archie & Edith came on board, sat right behind me, and were very flabbergasted and loudly expounding that no one has any patience any more in this world. They then took the first third of the flight proving to the flight crew and everyone else within earshot their hypothosis is correct beyond the shadow of any doubt, right up there with the theory of gravity. All was well and quiet until the landing sequence when a pair of two year old twins on a visit to their Irish auntie decided to give their very best spirited Axel Rose renditions. Ouch that hurt. The good news is I arrived and so did my backpack in a cardboard box with plenty if time to spare! Here is a quick snapshot of my expensive luggage. 

Ryanair flight to Bisrritz was a snap, box made it just fine. I am staying at the Itzalpea hotel for two nights super nice people. I've been traveling for 24+ hours so Day-1 blog entry is going to close out. Day zero is going to be a kick around day in St. Jean, look for lots of pretty shots of this beautiful medieval town tomorrow. Here is a quick shot out of my hotel window. Hasta Mañana. 

Cruz de Ferro Item

At the apex of large hill (or perhaps a small mountain) between the towns of Foncebadón and Manjarín on the Camino de Santiago de Compostella is the Cruz de Ferro (Iron Cross). It is a tradition, for a pilgrim to bring an item of significance that represents a burden that they've been carrying. We've all got our demons and burdens, I am no exception, That being said it has been a bit of a struggle for me to figure out what small token item could best represent the most of these in a meaningful way. I am still fighting this virus I have had, and last night I had a vision, the vision of what I should bring came to me in a unsettled, fitful, fever laden dream-state, It did stick, however, and I woke-up with the knowledge of what was to be laid at the cross. Here is a photo of what I am bringing. Only a very few will be able to connect the dots on this one.  If you cannot, don't feel left-out, it is more an accident of this item being pretty obscure than anything else, and the mystery shall remain. Only an individual face to face discussion, perhaps with some red wine, would be the forum to peel back the layers of this psychological onion.

 

 

Here is a picture of the Cruz De Ferro

 

 

 There is a traditional prayer that is often recited as one leaves their burden at the site.

Lord, may this stone,

a symbol of my efforts on the pilgrimage

that I lay at the foot of the cross of the Saviour,

one day weigh the balance in favour of my good deeds

when the deeds of my life are judged.

 Let it be so



Getting Really Close

Less than a week to go and this time has had its challenges. My 88 year old mother-in-law who lives in Arizona fell suffered a couple hairline fractures in the hip and femur.....as luck would have it this occurred as we were out visiting so my wife and my dog stayed in AZ and I am doing the final prep solo. On top of that, some sort of viral infection latched on to me 5 days ago and is only now lessening it's grip. Hopefully, by next Tuesday I'll be back to me normal self again......been running a fever for 5 days. Went to the Hospital to rule out anything really bad and I guess I am fortunate that it is viral. I keep telling myself that this is all good in that my immune system should be good and tested by the departure date.

So today's little project involved a final checklist, gathering and packing. Here's all the stuff on my bed.

We've got......

Osprey Exos 46 backpack
Osprey in pack hydration system
Rain Gear - Osprey Pack cover and O2 cycling rain jacket
4 pair of lightweight Smartwool hiking socks
2 pair of medium weight Smartwool hiking socks
Teva Mid Hiking Boots
Kenkoh reflexology flipflops
2 pair of underwear
2 Smartwool Merino Poly Blend T-Shirts
2 Pair of convertible hiking pants/shorts
1 long sleeve cyclist shirt
1 long sleeve quick dry travel shirt
1 set of light weight thermal underwear
Deuter 600 ultra-light sleeping bag
European & US USB Charging ports
1 charging chord & my Samsung Galaxy Note II
Plastic Spork
1 Bar Dr. Bronner's Peppermint Soap
2 - 4oz tubes of Vaseline
Small Swiss army knife
Toothbrush
Travel size toothpaste
Lightweight Sunhat
1 pair of Diamond Z pacer poles
1 extra pair of shoelaces
Assorted Bandages & Pads and Tapes
Small Day pack
Passport, Euros, credit/atm cards & travel docs
Pilgrim's Credencial
Brierley Guide to the Camino Frances
46 days worth of my Melaleuca Vitamin Packs

I think that's everything. Putting everything in the pack except for 1 change of clothes and the pacer poles will give me my pack-weight without food and water, All of the experts say that this should be less than 10 percent of your body weight, 20 lbs for me. Well all packed up it came in at 16.08 lbs, 1.5 lbs was just for the vitamins so those will be going away as each day passes. At the end of the Camino I should be at about 14.5 pounds. Here is a picture of the pack all put together!!

Some Pre-Camino Training in Central PA

Well my departure for Europe is 26 days away.......while visiting my Son in State College, PA I took the opportunity to do a couple of training treks with elevation changes and rocky terrains that are just not available in Florida. Yesterday we walked up to the top of Mt. Nittany (the reported mountain that grew over grave of a mystical Indian Princess, I believe). The initial climb up was steep and rocky from base to peak with the rise in elevation was 650 feet in about 0.6 miles (a nice 25% grade on a rocky trail where footing was not all that easy). I was a huffin and a puffin but was feeling good at the top. The walk down was even more challenging.

Here is a picture of my son Kurt and his wife Wendy at the top of Mt. Nittany.

This was a good test as the terrain on the first 2 days out of St. Jean-Pier-De-Port in France is a bit more forgiving. Day one from St. Jean to Orisson is about 675 meters over about 8.5 km, an approximate 8% slope (about a third s steep as the walk up Mt. Nittany with much smoother terrain). Day 2 from Orisson to the high point of Col Lepoeder is about another  715 meters in vertical rise over 11 km about a 6.5% slope. Based on how I did yesterday, I am sure I'll be huffin' and puffi'n my way over the Pyrenees but feeling good that I will make it!

Today Kurt and I took a really nice 6 or so mile walk in the Shingletown Gap area near State College up the Bald Knob peak. What a nice walk over some fairly rocky terrain.....this was a super test of my hiking boots, my feet were sliding a bit but nothing unmanageable and no blisters with plenty of opportunity for a blister or two. The hike up to the ridge was another 600+ feet rise at about a 25% slope which winded me a bit but did not defeat me, We walked a fair portion of the loop along the lower stream bed and an equal amount along the upper ridge. It was a really nice few hours of walking with my Son in beautiful terrain. A big plus is a discovered a wild black raspberry bush with delicious ripe berries at the Apex at Bald Knob - absolutely delicious, no doubt among the healthiest things I have ever eaten. Here are a few snapshots of portions of the walk and a picture of Kurt at Bald Knob.

 

Among the lessons learned the past couple of days: 1) Going downhill is tougher than going uphill, 2) my hiking boots are just fine but I do need to brush up on some lacing techniques, 3) I am going to make it though the 1st couple of days through the Pyrenees, 4) I should get a pair of the trekking poles, they will help. All in all a great coupe of days in the beautiful outdoors of Central PA....really looking forward to my walk from France into and across Spain!

Getting Closer

I am about 48 days away from the Camino. I'm getting a bit anxious because my training was compromised due to the plantar fasciitis issue I had in my right foot. I really need to begin training again in earnest, but the Florida heat and my schedule is making that a challenge. Worst case scenario is that my first week out of St Jean will serve as my training. I have decided to make the first day the short one and some rest in a small hamlet in the Pyrennes called Orisson.

Feet Issues

My training has been going pretty well. I slowly worked up to 13.5 miles with a fully loaded pack.....then came plantar faciatis. Lots of of fun, not. I've gotten it largely under control with a combination of hot and cold compresses, stretches and some fairly expensive inserts that are taking some getting used to. But all seems to be working and I've restarted my training from scratch to account for the inserts. 

I've also gone to a chiropractor, I worked out plantar tendon in the bottom of my foot.  It hurt like hell, in fact the pain was excruciating. He also used something called cold laser therapy. The good news is the pain was worth it, my feet feel much better today. I have a few more treatments to go and I am optimistic that this will be a very good therapy.

The jury is out on the inserts, my feet are not comfortable in them. I'm going to give you a few more days and check with the chiropractors thanks.

Come hell or high water I am headed to Spain on August 20th.

In a complementary effort I am on a mission to reduce every possible ounce I can from my pack. Right now I am scanning the guide books I purchased into PDF format to load onto my IPAD mini. Next on the list is getting down to the bare essentials and cutting out labels etc...every ounce counts I like to cut a pound out if possible.